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How To Make Your Own Incense
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Since the dawn of time incense has
been used for creating aromatic, fragrant space both indoors and
out. Incense has always been deeply intertwined with religious ceremonies
and the practice of medicine. The first reported healing practices,
recorded in ancient Egypt, exposed patients to the smoke of incense
for healing. You can strengthen your connection to nature by rediscovering
the ancient art of making incense.
Non-combustible incense
Incense of the ancients, just the ingredients themselves,
after grinding and mixing or 'incense pellets', where soft resins,
balsams, or dried fruits and honey have been added to form pea sized
'pellets'. This incense is heated using charcoal and is the easiest
method of mixing incense.
Mixing Ingredients
If your ingredients are not already powdered you must pulverize
them using a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder. Electric coffee
grinders produce too much heat, resulting in loss of vital chemicals
from our ingredients and therefore should not be used. Most resins
will break the blades of electric coffee grinders. For loose incense
the ingredients do not need to be an ultra fine powder; small granule
size is good enough. Hand coffee grinders are very useful for some
ingredients without the heat buildup of electric grinders.
Tips
Freeze your resins for about 15 minutes, they will be much easier
to pulverize.
Woods are more difficult to pulverize with a mortar and pestle,
a hand crank coffee grinder is the best choice.
If your new to making incense mixtures keep the number of ingredients
down to three to begin with. One wood and two herbs, or one resin,
one wood and one herb, etc. As you become more familar with making
incense you can slowly expand the number of ingredients you use.
This will allow you to learn the aroma of each ingredient.
Pulverize your ingredients by "class"
by grinding woods first, then herbs and resins last. Resins can
make a mess of your grinder or mortar, saving it for last will prevent
your having to clean the grinder until you are completely finished.
Measure each ingredient in the recipe before grinding, then keep
one bowl for all the dry ingredients and another for all the resins.
Mix all your dry ingredients together first (herbs
& woods), separately mix all your resins together then add your
resins mixture to your dry mixture and mix together thoroughly with
a stirring spoon, I prefer to use a wooden spoon. Place the completed
mixture into the mortar and pestle again and grind it all together
to blend the aroma of each ingredient into the others.
You can heat this mixture as it is over charcoal.
You have just created your own incense!!
Incense Pellets
Combine all other ingredients first, then add them
to labdanum, or other pliable resin, and knead well. Dry these pellets
in a ceramic jar with a lid for 2 - 3 weeks.
Dried fruit can also be used to make incense pellets.Organic
Sultana Raisins, dried Prunes or dried Apricots. Honey is also used
as a preservative for the dried fruit, and adds a warm fragrance
to a mixture. Honey itself can be used to form pellets from any
dry mixture without the use of any fruit or pliable resins.
1/2 - 3/4 of a cup of dried fruit for every 1 cup
of loose incense mixture seems to work well. You may also soak dried
fruit overnight in a heavy red wine then drain and add the fruit
to the loose incense. Mix a small amount of fruit with a small amount
of your mixture and mash it together with a mortar and pestle until
all of your mixture has pulverized fruit in it. Transfer the entire
mixture to a mixing bowl (I prefer to use a wooden bowl) and drizzle
on about one teaspoon of pure honey for every 3/4 cup of dried fruit,
knead together well. You may choose to crumble the mixture with
your hands and spread it out on a cotton cloth, cardboard, wooden
board, wax paper, etc. store it indoors, out of the sunlight, allowing
it to dry. You can also form pea-sized balls with your hands and
then spread them out to dry. Drying time can take 2-4 weeks depending
on climate (temp and humidity). Turn the mixture daily for proper
drying. You may even choose to place your pellets in a ceramic jar
with a lid and allow them to age for up to a year. In Japan, the
ceramic jar is often buried in the ground for up to a year. You
can heat this mixture over charcoal.
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Incense Cones and Sticks
The loose incense you made above can be used for
this however the consistency should be a fine powder which means
you will most likely have to do more work with the mortar and
pestle before going on to this step.
There are many ways to make cones and sticks,
some people use gum arabic or tragacanth to bind their sticks
or cones mixed with charcoal or saltpeter to gain combustion.
Since saltpeter is a toxic substance, I prefer a different way...
Makko is made from the bark of the tabu-no-ki
tree a evergreen tree which grows in Asia and is a natural combustible
material that is also water soluble. When added to loose incense
mixtures with a small amount of distilled water, makko allows
for the forming of incense cones or sticks. Because it is water
soluble, the exact amount of makko to add to a mixture depends
on the humidity of your environment and the amount of resins and
woods in your mixture.
First make your 'loose' incense, allow it to sit
at least overnight to 'work together'.
Start off with a small amount of your loose incense in a bowl,
(again I always prefer wooden) add the makko. If your mixture
has no resins in it, you will likely only need to add between
10% - 25% of makko to your mixture. (i.e. If you use 8 tablespoons
of loose mixture, try adding 1 - 2 tablespoon of makko). If you
have resins in your mixture then you may need 25% - 80% makko.
You should keep a notebook to record the exact
measurements of your recipes so you can recreate the ones that
come our perfect and adjust those that don't. You will have to
play with this some to find the right balance for your climate
and your mixtures.
Now for the true hands on part
Very slowly add a little water and mix with your hands, the mixture
should be gummy and pliable yet still hold form as you mold it.
Using your hands, knead the mixture very, very well then form
it into cones or sticks.
Cones are relatively easy to form.
To make sticks, use a piece of wax paper on a flat surface rolling
the mixture into sticks with your hands. You can also buy blank
bamboo sticks that have absolutely no additives and roll your
mixture onto the sticks.
Allow your cones or sticks to dry at least a couple of weeks -
again this depends on climate. You want to keep them away from
sunlight and heat during this time. Sticks will dry faster than
cones. Cones you can tell are dry by turning them upside down
and looking to see if there is any color difference in the center
of the bottom compared to the outer edges. When dry, light one
of your creations and see how it burns and smells. If it doesn't
burn steadily, you need to increase the amount of makko to the
mixture. If it burns too fast, then decrease the makko content.
Any that don't burn properly may be ground back up and the amount
of makko adjusted by adding more makko or more loose incense mixture
to them, add a little water and begin again.
Tips
If the mixture is a new one, make the loose incense and burn some
to see if the aroma is what you desired before you go thru the
steps and time involved to make it into cones or sticks.
If the aroma is overpowered with any ingredient, you can adjust
the loose mixture till you get what you want then go on to make
the loose incense into cones or sticks.
Sandalwood is common to almost every incense formula, and makes
as a wonderful base aroma as well as a burning agent of it's own
right.
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Tragacanth Glue
(Gum tragacanth can be found at herb stores and some drug stores)
To make tragacanth glue, place a teaspoon of the
ground herb in a glass of warm water. Mix thoroughly in a bowl and
whisk or beat with an egg beater until all particles are dispersed.
You can skim off the foam that rises or allowed to disperse. Let
the tragacanth absorb the water until it becomes a thick bitter-smelling
paste (an ounce will absorb up to one gallon of water in a week).
For sticks (the most difficult kind to make) the mixture should
be relatively thin. For blocks and cones a thicker mucilage should
be made. This is where practice comes in handy after a session or
two you will automatically know when the mucilage is at the correct
consistency. If you can't find tragacanth, try using gum Arabic
in its place. This, too, absorbs water. When you have made the trag
glue, cover with a wet cloth and set aside. It will continueto thicken
as it sits, so if it becomes to thick add a bit of water and stir
thoroughly.
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| Combustible Incense Base (cause I know some of you
will want it anyway)
The following recipe will result in a basic, combustible
incense mixture. Creates approximately 60-80 small cones.
6 Tbsp powdered wood (sandlewood,
cedar, pine, juniper etc.)
2 Tbsp powdered benzoin (or other resin such as Frankincense, Myrrh,
etc.)
1 Tbsp ground orris root (fixative)
A few drops essential oil (pick one used in the incense) or other
liquid like wine, honey, etc.
3 to 5 Tbsp noncombustible incense mixture
Tragacanth Glue (above)
Try to match the wood base of this incense to the
incense's recipe. If you can't, use sandalwood.
In a large bowl, mix the first 3 ingredients together
until well blended. Add the oil or liquid and mix again. Finally
add the incense mixture and blend until you have a evenly blended
powder with a fine texture. Weigh the combined mixture with a kitchen
scale.
Determine what ten percent of the total weight is,
and add exactly that much saltpeter. (if the mixture weighs ten
grams, use one gram of saltpeter.) This measurement must be exact
so the incense can burn properly. (Too much and it burns too fast
too little and it wont light.) Mix in the saltpeter thoroughly.
Add the Tragacanth Glue, one teaspoon at a time,
the consistency should be dough-like, very similar to that of a
pie crust (not too wet but moist enough that you can mold it with
your hands).
When creating combustible incense, the ratio
of powdered woods to resin should be 2 to 1. Your resin (benzoin,
frankincense, myrrh, gums, saps, etc.) should never be more than
one-third of the final mixture.
When your mixture is the desired consistency, you
can mold it into shapes. Cones and blocks are the easiest to mold.
Sticks are much more difficult, especially if you don't have a special
press (sold in craft stores).
Cones: Roll the mixture into small, marble-sized
balls with your hands, then shape them into one-inch long cones.
Arrange them upright on a sheet of waxed paper and place them somewhere
warm to dry. They'll take 3 to 7 days to dry. During this time,
turn them regularly so they dry evenly and don't crack.
Blocks: Shape incense into long strips approximately
one-third of an inch in height and width, and then cut the strips
into one-inch long rectangles. Use the same drying process as you
would for cones.
Sticks: Add more paste to the mixture until
it's wet but still thick. If you don't have a special press (highly
recommended), pat the dough out on waxed paper until it's very thin;
then place one stick at a time onto the dough and roll a thin coat
around the stick (leaving a few inches on one end uncoated) until
the coating is twice the thickness of the stick (no thicker). Squeeze
or press the dough onto the stick so it will stay put. Place the
uncoated end into some clay, sand or another substance that will
allow it to stand upright to dry.
To burn cones, blocks, or sticks, place them one
at a time in an incense burner or bowl half-filled with sand or
salt.
Each cone, block, or stick will burn for approximately
ten to 25 minutes.
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Incense Papers
Saltpeter (potassium nitrate, available in most
drug stores if u dont see it ask at the pharmacy)
Blotter Paper (Construction paper will work in a pinch)
Various tinctures (for scent)
Cut the paper into strips about 1 inch by 6 inches.
Dissolve 1 1/2 teaspoons of saltpeter (potassium nitrate) in 1/2
a cup of very warm water. Soak the strips in this until saturated.
Hang them up to dry, or if you are in a hurry, you can drape them
over the racks in your oven and turn it on a low heat until they
are dry.
Once the strips are dry you have 2 options. You
can leave them as they are and use them in place of charcoals or
you can scent them. To use them as charcoals, just light the paper
and sprinkle a thin layer of herbs or powdered incense blends over
the paper. It will smolder them just like the charcoal does. If
you dont use a THIN layer it will go out. Or to scent them yourself
you will want to take tinctures and completly coat the paper with
it on one side and then let it dry again. Soft scents may need to
be coated again after it dries the first time. Heavy fragrences
are better for this and Tinctures from gums and resins seem to produce
the best results. Always store in labeled airtight containers.
The secret to keeping them lit is air circulation
below the papers. Place the paper on some heat-proof object in the
censer, or fill the censer with salt or sand and push one end of
the paper into it so that it stands on end like a incense stick.
Single scents tend to work best but you can experement
using various tenture combinations to see what you may like.
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Allspice - attract money, luck
and provide extra physical energy.
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Arabic, gum - purification and
protection of the home.
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Bay - purification, healing,
protection and sharpening psychic powers.
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Benzoin - purification, prosperity
and increasing mental powers.
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Cedar - purification, protection,
to speed healing and promote spirituality. Also used for obtaining
money.
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Cinnamon - sharpen psychic powers,
draw money, confer protection and strengthen love.
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Clove - protection, exorcism,
money, love and purification.
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Copal - protection, cleansing,
purification, promote spirituality, and to purify quartz crystals
and other stones before use in magick.
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Dragon's Blood - love, protection,
exorcism and sexual potency.
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Frankincense - protection, exorcism,
spirituality, love and consecration.
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Juniper - exorcism, protection,
healing and love.
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Myrrh - healing, protection,
exorcism, peace, consecration, meditation.
- Patchouli - money, fertility, lust.
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Pine - money, purification, healing
and exorcism.
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Rosemary - protection, exorcism,
purification, healing, to induce sleep, restore or maintain
youth, to bring love and increase intellectual powers.
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Sage - promote healing and spirituality.
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Sandalwood - protection, healing,
exorcism, spirituality
- Sweetgrass - calling good spirits, protection.
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Thyme - health, healing, purification
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| Although not exact quotes much of this
information was learned from Scott Cunninghams " Complete Book
of Incenses,Oils and Brews " |
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